Tuesday, March 29, 2011

Last day in Savannah

We get up a bit late and shower, in cold water! I had about 1 1/2 minutes of warm water. Brrr. Red Gate farm for all its quaintness is wearing on us. There is no TP either. So napkins and paper towels and a trash can have to do.
Finally we head off to town. We go to the Telfair Academy. Two rooms in this former mansion are decorated with period pieces, a receiving room and a dining room. The kitchen downstairs was original with the house although the furnishings were not original. We are most impressed with a special exhibit upstairs of paintings by Phillip Juras.
I especially liked the forest fire paintings.
The admission to the Telfair Academy is for three sites. One is closed but the Owens-Thomas House is open with docent tours, so we walk over through 2 of the lovely squares of Savannah.
The tour of the Owens-Thomas house starts with the slave quarters, a 2 story building where some 9-14 slaves lived. Across the courtyard, now a formal garden, to the 2 story house. In the basement was the laundry and bathing room. This house had running water from 2 huge rainwater cisterns on the roof. The bathing room had 2 marble tubs, think Roman, and a cold water shower. No hot running water.
The front two rooms are done in the muted colors of the original owners, the Richardsons, who spent $50,000 building it from 1816-1819. Mr. Richardson suffered personal and financial losses and the home went to the bank. In 1830 Mr Owens bought it from the bank for $10,000. This was a huge fancy Regency home.
The back rooms and the hall are done in the dark colors fashionable later in the 19th century, mostly a hideous green and pink. The tour was great.
But now we are hungry and every restaurant we pass is closed. We are not on restaurant row. Finally we see Barnes BBQ and a neon open sign. No one is inside, but 3PM is not prime lunch time. There are pictures of the food in the window. This is a genuine BBQ joint. So I will go in and have a beer and William will go back to the RV, feed the meter and drop off some parcels. Are you OK being left here he says?
Yes I say!
So I go in and order my typical Bud Light and ensconce myself near the front window. The 3PM crowd begins to trickle in. I am shilling for the place by sitting at the window. Some look like locals. Some young people. Some obvious tourists.
William gets back and we order. A Redneck Reuben with collards for me and a City Slicker with fries for William. He orders a Sweetwater 420 pale ale. Code word!
We walk around downtown until it is time to head back to Red Gate. Thankfully they have not given our spot away. But they have not cleaned the bathroom. We both ransack the place looking for TP. I think they have forgotten to buy any. We are not recommending this place. We hear it is undergoing a change in management.
A bit of soup and bread is plenty of dinner. Off for Atlanta to visit friends in the AM.

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