Monday, September 22, 2014

Traveling North: New Brunswick

We have eaten a lot of lobster in Maine and I am sure we will have more as we continue into Canada. It seems strange now that lobster were once considered trash and used to fertilize fields when a lot washed ashore after storms. Servants complained if they had to eat lobster too often.
We have had wild blueberries in Maine and there are wild blueberries in Canada. We pass Wild Blueberry Land on the highway.
Wild Blueberry Land
We cross into Canada to Campobello Island.
Herring Cove

Herring Cove Selfie
After spending the night at Herring Cove Provincial Park we tour Roosevelt Campobello International Park. I did not realize that the Roosevelt's summer cottage was in Canada.
Roosevelt Cottage

In the 1880's and 90's wealthy families fled the heat of the east coast to points north. In 1883 FDR's parents visited Campobello Island and decided to buy land for a cottage. Cottage was just what you called your summer house regardless of the size. So after Franklin and Eleanor married they came here also. His mother, Sara, bought them the house next door and that is the cottage that remains. With a large family and 6 to 8 servants plus help hired from town they needed a big house. With the addition the house grew to 10 thousand square feet. Although the house always had running water from water pumped to a tank on the third floor, there was no electricity while it was owned by the Roosevelts. FDR contracted polio here in 1921 when he was 39. He made only 3 more brief visits to the island after that, preferring to spend most of his free time in therapy at Warm Springs, Georgia. Although the family still came here.
Hubbard Cottage
We toured the house and had a “Tea with Eleanor” at the neighboring Hubbard Cottage that is also part of the park.
Back over the bridge and back into the USA. Such a hassle, filling out customs forms, etc. We were on a little island for one day.
For the night we went back into Canada and stayed at New River Provincial Park on the Bay of Fundy.
The tide is low
Our guide book said that the Provincial Parks were open until the middle of October. Wrong. Most of them are already closed and this one was closing the next night. They had already closed up all but one bathroom.
Sunday in St John we first went to the reversing rapids.
bay is right and river at left
Painting of the Reversing Rapids
The Bay of Fundy has very high tides. About 28 feet right here. When the tide is low the St. John River flows down in rapids to the bay. When it is right in between high and low the water is flat and the river water and the bay water just meet under the bridge. At high tide the rapids go up river and the tide flows up the St. John River. We watch the water go up the river at high tide.
The Queens Square Farmer's Market is still open for the season. So we buy a few vegetables.
Queen Square Market 
Then on to the New Brunswick Museum.
Outside the museum
This museum is a bit confusingly laid out. It is obvious that the war of 1812 was very important to the locals because it comes first. On the second floor we get a bit of an idea why. After the revolutionary war in the USA there were about 500,000 Americans who had supported and fought on the losing side, for the British. A lot of these people were not comfortable staying with the revolutionaries. Many of them packed up and moved north to New Brunswick which really did not exist then as a settled land. The British helped them move and much to the chagrin of the local natives, parceled off land for farms to the new settlers. The Loyalists said they came because they were tired of war and wanted peace and the security of the British. This is why the importance of the war of 1812, which they portray as a war of American aggression. It is also characterized as a war that both sides claim to have won. Just what anyone won I am not clear.
We hoped to learn more about the Loyalists, which is what those Tory Traitors were called here, at the Loyalist House Museum. But after huffing up a steep city block, it was closed.
No one is home

Built on a rock

So we hit the road again. I spot a sign on a telephone pole advertising Shack Jackers. Move your house for you.
I watch for moose in the Musquash Marsh.
There is a covered bridge visible from the highway.

We are spending the night at the Fundy National Park. Very small park. We are camped up on a bluff overlooking the Bay of Fundy and the town of Alma. It is low tide right now. In Canada they are fond of having kitchen huts. There are two kitchen huts and one bathroom house in our row of campsites. The kitchen huts are meant for group parties with two big wood cooking stoves and many tables.
We are going to look at the town of Alma and go look at the Hopewell Rocks.


Thursday, September 18, 2014

Traveling East: Acadia

Acadia National Park is lovely. Some people come here in May and stay until the season in over near the end of October. We have a view of the Bay of Maine.
The rusty leaves on the ground in the field in front of us hide a few of the remains of this years crop of wild blueberries. We are scavengers so we pick a few.
Wild Blueberries and the Bay of Maine

We drive along the park loop road in a light rain. On warmer days people often play in the water at sand beach. But the water is seldom above 50 degrees. 
Sand Beach

We walk among the rocks at low tide and then go to the top of Cadillac Mountain. At 1530 feet it is the highest spot on the eastern seaboard.
The Old Man in the Granite blocks

Top of Cadillac Mountain
We took a walk on the nature trail before we have lunch at the Jordan Pond House. 
William and Bubbles
These are called the Bubbles, North Bubble and South Bubble. For sure.

The Jordan Pond House
Lunch has to include warm popovers with butter and strawberry jam. I just had a cup of soup and hot tea, so I could fully enjoy the popovers.
On the trails you frequently see these trail markers put up long ago.

Another day we walked around Bar Harbor. At least we went on a day when there was only one cruise ship in town. We first went to the local Native American Museum. 
Abbe Museum

Agamont Park 

Whoopie Pies
My impression from Bar Harbor is that people in Maine like Whoopie Pies and puns.







.

Monday, September 15, 2014

Traveling East to Maine

About Amish Country, although the buggies on the road are cute and the horses are fast high steppers, there is not a lot to see here.
Unless you want to take a buggy ride or shop for Amish furniture or quilts, The little shops are full of tchotchkes not locally made. Made in India or China.

There were lots of nagging and strange road signs in Pennsylvania. Don't Tailgate.
Also lots of extra curve signs. Every other one includes the suggested speed limit. Also lots of red light cameras. Hope some of them are dummies.
Also spotted some deer crossing signs with red noses on the deer.

At Delaware Water Gap Park I spot a Smokey Bear sign with Low fire danger. Probably they have mislaid the ones that say high fire danger. We can tell we're not in California. Many new bad fires break out every day.
I see so many place names ending in kill I know it must mean something. Comes from the Dutch meaning water channel or riverbed. Bushkill, Raymondkill, Fishkill, Peekskill.
We stayed at Kettletown State Park. This is a no alcohol park. We laid low.
Kettletown

Bath shipyards







Bath in Maine has lots of old ship captains houses.

Bath Chocolate Church




No big trucks here on highway 1. The overpasses are too low. We fit. The road is kind of torn up. Probably from winter chains.





Down the road is the first of many flea markets. Junk as entertainment since 1977. We stop at this one and give the others a pass.

Lunch at Claws in Rockport
Verona Island Bridge
old house
I had to get a picture off the web of the Verona Island Bridge as I couldn't get a good one.


 I spotted this old house along the road. It looks like it is in the process of falling down.

Bar Harbor (Bah Habah)
We are now at Acadia National Park. Lots of shuttle buses here. So tomorrow the plan is to ride as many as we can.

Thursday, September 11, 2014

Traveling East: Civil War

We went to both Antietam National Battlefield Park and Gettysburg National Military Park. Learned a lot more about this horrible war where 750,000 people died. Figures were recently revised upwards. The rivers and creeks ran red with blood for days after battles and you could walk from one side of a field to another without stepping on the ground.
Antietam was a one day battle, September 17, 1862. McClellan vs Lee. Four thousand killed and 19,000 wounded and missing. Most of the missing were dead and most of the wounded died. It was not a battle of tactics. Just a pitched brawl. The bloodiest single day in American history. The bayonets were bent into meat hooks to drag the bodies off into mass graves. The battle was technically a draw.
Now you just see fields where the battle was. 

The Dunker church was pulverized and fell down in a wind storm. This is a reconstruction. 

The Burnside Bridge over Antietam Creek. 

A small evocative monument. 

Union graves were eventually moved to Antietam National Cemetery. 

Gettysburg was a much bigger affair. Three days of battle July 1 to July 3, 1863. There were a lot of tactical maneuvers, some worked out and some didn't. Meade vs Lee. Meade had an army of 93,000 and eventually lost 23,000, killed, wounded, missing or captured. Lee had 70,000 and lost 28,000. Pretty horrible numbers. Lee was on the offensive moving into Pennsylvania. Each army had some high ground with the Union forces maintaining a defensive fishhook line and defending their flanks. The culminating battle had Lee via Pickett charging from Seminary Ridge to Union positions on Cemetery Ridge. The war continued for 2 more years, but this loss was the beginning of the end.
The eternal flame of peace has burned out. Budget cuts? I don't know. I forgot to ask. 

Up on top of Little Round top at the far end of the Union line we overlook the Wheatfield, the Peach Orchard and Devils Den. 

The Wheatfield, 4,000 died here on July 2nd 

the General on top of Little Round Top 

Pickets Charge on the 3rd from Seminary Ridge 

High Water mark of the charge 


We are now in Amish country. Horses trot quickly on the road pulling buggies. 

I spot a horse drawn harvester harvesting Pioneer GMO corn. How anachronistic.
I don't know how this town got its name.
At one time it was called Cross Keys.