Monday, February 11, 2008
Now this is really Carnevale
William saw a poster for Carnevale in Viareggio. So after we had lunch in Pisa we caught the train to Viareggio. This was fantastic. Huge floats with lots of action and lots of humorous jibes at politics. The crowd was so huge we got a bit of the experience of the true meaning of the expression crushed in a crowd. The fireworks at the end were long, about 25 minutes, and wonderfully choreographed to music. We were back in Lucca by a bit after 9. Still time for a late snack. 


Look very closely at the figure above William.



The revelers

We took a lot of the pictures early, while the floats were still parked. We thought they were wonderful then, but to see them lit up and full of movement was amazing. The parade itself did not start until about 5 and came to a standstill in the crush of the crowd at about 7, then, while crushed in the crowd, what seemed like interminable announcements of the float winners prior to the fireworks that signaled the end of Carnevale for another year.
Pisa
No trip to this area is complete without a side trip to Pisa. So we took the train for a side trip on Sunday.


We did not climb the tower as 1. it was a 2 hour wait. 2. the stairs are sloped, slippery and have no hand rail. 3. there are a lot of stairs. 4. the charge is 15 euros per person. Leave that climb to others.
We did not climb the tower as 1. it was a 2 hour wait. 2. the stairs are sloped, slippery and have no hand rail. 3. there are a lot of stairs. 4. the charge is 15 euros per person. Leave that climb to others.
Making Friends
Puccini
Thursday, February 7, 2008
Lucca; Ramparts and Churches
William is up on the ramparts. These were built in Medieval times to defend the city from other cities. They did manage to defend the city from a flood in 1812.
We have been in quite a few churches and I have never seen a fresco showing Mary with a sword protecting the bambino from a horrid devil.
This city has a lot of history. The Etruscans were here, then it was a Roman City with an amphitheater that seated 10,000. After the Romans were defeated by the barbarians the Roman buildings were used to build other houses. The amphitheater was filled with small huts which were cleared later so you can at least see where the amphitheater was. Here you can see houses built into the old walls of the amphitheater.
L'acqua di questa fontana proviene dall'antico acquedotto Voluto. The water from this fountain comes from the ancient aqueduct Voluto. We watched a woman fill her jugs of water, then Wm went over for a drink.
William liked this lion in the courtyard of an old Palace.
Tuesday, February 5, 2008
Churches and Palaces
We went to the museum at San Marco church and the rest of the Pitti Palace. No pictures in San Marco. They were having a special exhibit of the work of Fra. Angelico (1400-1455). He painted everywhere from frescoes in the monk's cells to illuminations in books. In one book I think he was doodling as next to the regular illustration he painted a black and white fire breathing dog and a devil headed bird with a pink bib.
Fra. Angelica
Another famous monk from San Marco was Savonarola (1452-1498). A very charismatic guy, he actually was in control of Florence for a few years when there was no clear leader from the Medicis. He was liked at first. He cut taxes and crime, but he also legislated morals with gangs of teenage thugs to enforce his edicts. But since he was also undermining the authority of the papacy, he wound up tortured, hung and burnt in 1498.
We saw his cell/room with his furniture and his cape and cowl.
We had already been to the Pitti Palace, but had not been to the gardens and a couple of other museums there so here we are.

Fra. Angelica
Another famous monk from San Marco was Savonarola (1452-1498). A very charismatic guy, he actually was in control of Florence for a few years when there was no clear leader from the Medicis. He was liked at first. He cut taxes and crime, but he also legislated morals with gangs of teenage thugs to enforce his edicts. But since he was also undermining the authority of the papacy, he wound up tortured, hung and burnt in 1498.
We saw his cell/room with his furniture and his cape and cowl.We had already been to the Pitti Palace, but had not been to the gardens and a couple of other museums there so here we are.
Monday, February 4, 2008
More Florence
In the Duomo Museum: Aging Michelangelo decided to design his own tomb. So he got a block of marble, but it was hard and grainy--very hard to sculpt. Michelangelo sculpted himself as Nicodemus in this Pieta, but for one reason or another it was never finished.
Donatello was old when he decided to try his hand at wood sculpture and carved this aged Mary Magdalene out of white poplar.
A young Luca Della Robbia was asked to make a choir box for the cathedral. These are some of the panels that illustrate Psalm 150 of various ways to praise the lord with instruments and song. Della Robbia did no more sculpture after this. He quit while he was ahead and devoted his studio to the production of colorful glazed terra-cotta. His family continued with the terra-cotta for so long that the name Della Robbia refers to this type of terra-cotta.
William especially liked this Donatello--Habakkuk.
At the Medici Palace a scrap of garden and some old garden statues are left where the teenage Michelangelo lived as an adopted son, where Leonardo da Vinci played the lute at parties and Botticelli strolled.
In a courtyard of the Medici Palace, Orpheus and his harp music tames the three headed dog that guards the entrance to hell. Does this bit sound familiar to you Harry Potter lovers?
No pictures allowed in the Medici Chapel. This sculpture was from a special show in a side room at the Palace. Sculpted by Ciusa in 1907 it is called "La Madre del'ucciso' the mother of a murdered man. She is sitting and mourning.
Donatello was old when he decided to try his hand at wood sculpture and carved this aged Mary Magdalene out of white poplar.
Sunday, February 3, 2008
Carnevale Fiorentino nel Mondo
Florence Carnival around the world. Finally we find Carnival. The parade highlighted the myriad ethnic communities in Florence--Philippines, Denmark, Eritrea, Czech Republic, Peru, Bolivia, Brazil, Bangladesh, Indonesia, and many more. We were in the square near our apartment where the parade ended. Cute Polizia at the head of the parade. (Wm was taking most of the pictures.)
A drum band led out
Chinese Dragon guy gets hit with either silly string or artificial snow.
Lots of energy in this guy from some unknown country
William and a lush Brazilian samba dancer
Me and someone from maybe Indonesia
After the parade each group did a performance. This group was prior to the parade. A group of school children singing old McDonald had a farm. In Italian it sounds pretty good. Ben and Axel would have grooved to it.
Saturday, February 2, 2008
Lunch with Dante
We lunched at the Taverna Divina Commedia just down the street from Dante's house. On the wall they had painted "Lasciate ogni speranza, voi ch' entrate." The English for that from the Inferno is "Abandon hope all ye who enter here." The lunch was very good though. I had crostini misti and a spina birra- an assortment of spreads on bread and a beer on tap.
Today we went to the Bargello Gallery and Santa Croce Church.
At the Bargello the drunken Bacchus and bust of Brutus both by Michelangelo were highlights.

This lion outside Santa Croce was really giving me the eye.
William at the sarcophagus of Machiavelli.
A precursor of Lady Liberty.
William with a fragment of the robes of St Francis, the patron saint of his birth city, San Francisco.
Today we went to the Bargello Gallery and Santa Croce Church.

This lion outside Santa Croce was really giving me the eye.
Friday, February 1, 2008
More time in Florence
In the background you can see a copy of Michelangelo's David. We were up on the loggia looking at the statuary there. David is much more impressive in his current museum home. He had to be moved as his left arm was broken off when a bench was thrown out of the Palazzo Vecchio during a riot in the 1527.
We spotted this statue in the Pitti Palace. Perhaps it could be titled "Axel spots his first donkey."
Or this one "Axel grabs a chicken."
William in front of the magnificent wedding cake of a Duomo.
Me in front of the bronze door to the Baptistery that Michelangelo called the gate to paradise. The door design and execution was the result of a contest held in 1400.
From Venice to Florence
Sunday 1/27 we went back to Venice to see what was going on with Carnevale (means goodbye to meat in anticipation of Lent).
On the Rialto Bridge looking for Carnivale
And the answer is almost nothing is going on. We thought things would be happening in San Marco Square. There was a play with many of the players on stilts--semi interesting. Kind of like when you get down to the end of the Malacon in Puerto Vallarta and a performance is still going on and people laugh at the jokes and you sit there because it is all in Spanish.
What is this play about?
So we looked at the event program--saw how skimpy it was. But it looked like there was a musical event at Campo Santa Sophia. So we took the bus-boat and arrived to find--Recorded Reggae and a drink stand. They were advertising a concert for the next weekend in a suburb of Venice near Mestre where we stayed.
Reggae Music Venue!
So we nibbled around for dinner and decided that Nevada City throws a better party on any given weekend with plays and musicals and bands at any number of venues than Venice does at carnival.
Monday 1/28 as we packed up to leave for Florence we noticed a big banner at the end of the square, loud music and a large number of carabinieri--4 or 5 police cars, policemen of a number of types standing and walking around. Since the populace appeared to just be going about their business, the protest or riot or whatever interesting thing was going to happen had not started yet. The banner as near as I could make it out was a protest about the circumstances of the death of the two young workers. One line said "enough death of workers", Basta morti something lavoros.
Now watching a riot in the square from the safety of our hotel window that overlooked the square would have been great---but we were leaving to catch the train.
In Florence we have a nice one bedroom apartment. I tried to use the toaster oven to warm up the bread while I was using the stove top and wound up blowing the master breaker for the apartment. Had to call the landlady and as she was trying to explain to me where the switch was a neighbor came out of her door and showed us. The bottom line is that you can run the oven or the microwave, but since the apartment has only a total draw of 3kw, you have to be careful.
I think the whole fuse blowing business was hard on the router as we have not been able to connect to the internet. The landlady is coming over. She may regret that since we looked harmless, she did not charge us a deposit.
I also learned that in the Supermercado you bag your produce in plastic bags place them on a scale and punch in the number for the item. A tag prints out and you place that on the bag. The checkout clerk showed me --this time--but made clear to me that next time I had to do this myself. Later Wm read in Rick Steves that this is the procedure..too late for me. Long ago, Gigante in Puerto Vallarta had a similar procedure for produce.
Tuesday 1/29 we wondered around Florence. Despite all the efforts with keeping nonresident cars out of the inner city and use of small cars, scooters and electric vehicles, this is still a polluted city. You can see the gray haze and that the stone walls are blackened.
A plug-in spot for your electric vehicles.

When crossing over the River Arno we spotted Wildlife. A family of giant Italian Muskrats--mom, dad and baby.
Here is Dad on the tire and Mom swimming over. Baby was swimming near the other bank.
Me at the River Arno.

Wm on the Ponte Vecchio

Looking back at the Ponte Vecchio from the Galleria Degli Uffizi
On the Rialto Bridge looking for Carnivale
And the answer is almost nothing is going on. We thought things would be happening in San Marco Square. There was a play with many of the players on stilts--semi interesting. Kind of like when you get down to the end of the Malacon in Puerto Vallarta and a performance is still going on and people laugh at the jokes and you sit there because it is all in Spanish.
What is this play about?
So we looked at the event program--saw how skimpy it was. But it looked like there was a musical event at Campo Santa Sophia. So we took the bus-boat and arrived to find--Recorded Reggae and a drink stand. They were advertising a concert for the next weekend in a suburb of Venice near Mestre where we stayed.
Reggae Music Venue!
So we nibbled around for dinner and decided that Nevada City throws a better party on any given weekend with plays and musicals and bands at any number of venues than Venice does at carnival.
Monday 1/28 as we packed up to leave for Florence we noticed a big banner at the end of the square, loud music and a large number of carabinieri--4 or 5 police cars, policemen of a number of types standing and walking around. Since the populace appeared to just be going about their business, the protest or riot or whatever interesting thing was going to happen had not started yet. The banner as near as I could make it out was a protest about the circumstances of the death of the two young workers. One line said "enough death of workers", Basta morti something lavoros.
Now watching a riot in the square from the safety of our hotel window that overlooked the square would have been great---but we were leaving to catch the train.
In Florence we have a nice one bedroom apartment. I tried to use the toaster oven to warm up the bread while I was using the stove top and wound up blowing the master breaker for the apartment. Had to call the landlady and as she was trying to explain to me where the switch was a neighbor came out of her door and showed us. The bottom line is that you can run the oven or the microwave, but since the apartment has only a total draw of 3kw, you have to be careful.
I think the whole fuse blowing business was hard on the router as we have not been able to connect to the internet. The landlady is coming over. She may regret that since we looked harmless, she did not charge us a deposit.
I also learned that in the Supermercado you bag your produce in plastic bags place them on a scale and punch in the number for the item. A tag prints out and you place that on the bag. The checkout clerk showed me --this time--but made clear to me that next time I had to do this myself. Later Wm read in Rick Steves that this is the procedure..too late for me. Long ago, Gigante in Puerto Vallarta had a similar procedure for produce.
Tuesday 1/29 we wondered around Florence. Despite all the efforts with keeping nonresident cars out of the inner city and use of small cars, scooters and electric vehicles, this is still a polluted city. You can see the gray haze and that the stone walls are blackened.
A plug-in spot for your electric vehicles.
When crossing over the River Arno we spotted Wildlife. A family of giant Italian Muskrats--mom, dad and baby.
Here is Dad on the tire and Mom swimming over. Baby was swimming near the other bank.
Me at the River Arno.
Wm on the Ponte Vecchio
Looking back at the Ponte Vecchio from the Galleria Degli Uffizi
Moving Day
Today we moved to #2 Via dei Calzaiuoli. We had been having trouble at our other apartment near the train station--the internet did not work and the electricity would go out at times. So our landlady paid for us to relocate to this rather prestigious address. It is a third floor walk up but otherwise is quite superior to the other apartment. At least we have/had electricity and internet--the college girls from New York who have the next door apartment just blew the circuit by using two blow dryers. I think that electricity is just a problem in Italian apartments.
As we were on the first floor in the other apartment we had a courtyard. This one has a courtyard side balcony. William always likes "air."
Via dei Calzaiuoli is a large pedestrian-only street that is part of the ancient Roman grid plan that became the heart of Florence. High euro shops line the street and we are close to all the big destination churches and museums.
Those girls need to give up blow dryers!
I am going to go back to some of our adventures in previous days now.
As we were on the first floor in the other apartment we had a courtyard. This one has a courtyard side balcony. William always likes "air."
Via dei Calzaiuoli is a large pedestrian-only street that is part of the ancient Roman grid plan that became the heart of Florence. High euro shops line the street and we are close to all the big destination churches and museums.
Those girls need to give up blow dryers!
I am going to go back to some of our adventures in previous days now.
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